![]() ![]() It is a 19 jewel automatic movement that beats at 18,000 bph with a 39 hour power reserve. Now, open up that killer caseback, and the real beauty of the 1954 Conquest is revealed: The Longines caliber 19AS movement. The case was available in steel, gold plate, and solid gold. The Conquest model saw countless different dial and case designs over the decades as the line continued into the 1970’s, but this first generation dial design is definitely the most iconic of the family. Later they made a version with the date window at 12, which carried over into many different Conquest models over the ensuing decades and became a signature look. Interestingly, the date window on these early Conquests were placed slightly more inwards towards the center of the dial rather than at the outer edge as is the norm. There was also a date version with the date window at 3 o’clock. There were ones with gold markers, and black dials with gold or steel markers as well. There were many different dial variations made for the Conquest line. There are dozens of example of beautifully executed dials from the 1950’s, but this dial is among the finest with its mix of textures and colors, and the use of the heavily faceted and bold steel markers combined with the fine and distinctive text script. While I can certainly sympathize with those that prefer a date and the useful functionality that goes with it, I always prefer the non-date versions as it contributes to the overall symmetry of the dial. And to top it all off, this first generation version has no date window…a thing of beauty. Plain steel dauphine hands were used and compliment the arrowhead markers. The “Automatic” and “Conquest” are printed in a distinctive script that was used by Longines for decades, and is instantly recognizable as belonging to the Longines brand. Of course, it’s signed with the ubiquitous “Swiss” below the 6 just at the bottom edge of the dial. Signed “Longines” and “Automatic” below the 12, with an applied steel Longines flying hourglass logo in between, and signed “Conquest” above the 6. There is a fine minute hash mark track just inside the silver circle. Depending on the light, this track can look either lighter or darker than the rest of the dial. There is a brushed silver circular track that runs around the dial at the level of the markers. The markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 are arrowhead shaped, while the others are slightly smaller trapezoids. It’s a matte silvery champagne color with applied faceted steel markers. While I’m a big fan of larger (40mm+/-), there’s something about the 35mm sporty dress watches of the 1950’s that sits just right on the wrist.Īs nice as the case and back are, it’s the dial that really makes this model shine. ![]() The case reference number “364” is stamped on the inside of the back, as well as the back side of the 10 o’clock lug. Many brands utilized caseback medallions, but the Longines medallions were tops in my opinion. Around the edge is engraved “Longines Automatic Waterproof”. It’s deeply engraved with a fish motif and has a spectacular deep green enamel covering. The back is topped off with a beautiful gold medallion in the center. With the help of a fellow collector, I was able to procure and example of said wrench, which is a nice additional touch (see pictures). Of course, any quality caseback wrench can be used, but Longines did make a specific tool for each size of back, like most manufacturers did. It has a thick, screw-in back with a twelve sided polygon design for the caseback tool. The caseback however, is quite different and something that set the Conquest apart from other contemporaries. Speaking of lugs, this model has beautiful beefy lugs with a nice subtle chamfer on the outer edge, again similar to the Seamasters. Similar to many of the Omega Seamasters of the era, it measures 35.2mm wide by 42.6mm long with 18mm lugs. The case is a study in simple yet rugged understatement. This Conquest was actually preceded by the All Guard, a watch that shared a similar case, movement, dial and hands. It ran from 1954 to about 1959, when a new case shape and movement were introduced. The first generation Conquest reviewed here is probably the most classic and easily recognizable iteration of the line for collectors of vintage watches. After the Conquest came the Flagship, then the Admiral and Grand Prize among others. Having a named family of watches certainly wasn’t introduced by Longines, but they definitely utilized the strategy to its fullest potential, and still use it today (as do most modern brands). Many more were to follow, but the venerable Conquest (such a killer name too…) was the beginning. The Conquest was the first step in a new development and marketing strategy with a named line or family of watches. In 1954 Longines launched the Conquest line, and with it a new era for the company. ![]()
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